August 31-September 7, 2002
An exciting flight to Negril during hurricane season.
It's an entirely too early morning to get our flight at 5:45. Blessedly, the flights are all nearly on time. We're psyched on the flight from Philly to Charlotte - seems that they had a different plane than originally planned, so our 4th row seats are now in 1st class! We arrive in Charlotte several free drinks later - this is vacation!
We land in MoBay - the flight is nearly on time and we're doing only carry-ons. It's a fast beeline to immigration. It's the last day of August.. It's hurricane season, but the forecast is good: "85 degrees.... feels like 94". We've got our fingers crossed for good weather.
The short van ride to the TimAir terminal with Charles is fast & easy. Curtis is piloting for us today. We've had him before - he's a good pilot... smooth flights, nice landings - a pleasant & very competent guy.
It's clear in MoBay, with clouds scattered around. We wait for an American Airlines plane (737ish) to taxi & take off, and we start our 15 minute flight. The water and coral are beautiful.
Halfway to Negril (about 8 minutes since takeoff). It begins to cloud over. There are a few puffs of wind - nothing too scary. Curtis eases down from 2000 ft to 900 ft. It begins to rain, then it begins to pour. Lightning flashes aways away, then a bright line arcs down to the water a little ways ahead of us - maybe 500 ft. Curtis drops to about 400 feet. We can see the water now & it's comforting to see the we could probably survive the crash now. Lightning flashes about 100 yards away - a few times. I'm getting scared.
We're pretty close to Negril now. It's raining hard & we can't see much. There's not too much wind though, so we're stable. We're at about 500 ft. That's good, since there's nothing around that's this high. Curtis is talking on the headset, and checking the gauges. He turns on the cabin PA system (which we've never heard before & didn't know existed in these little Timair planes...). He says "I'm sorry, but it's too bad & we'll have to go back to MoBay." Liz's stomach gives a lurch. She's done really well till now, but she's not likely to make it back without being sick.
My heart sinks. I'm worried, and begin to think, "Damn, now it'll be 2 hours till we check in."
Then... a horrible thought. "Hmm... I wonder if it's any better in MoBay..?" Fear sets in. I'm worried. Curtis is watching the thunder heads as we turn slowly back east toward MoBay. We circle around a bit. It's still nasty, but we can see Bloody Bay. The PA system comes on again: "We're going to try it. It looks better." Those words are poetry. My hands are sweaty. We turn & head for the runway. We can see it now. It's a sweet sight. We drop down. We bounce a little, but not too bad, We're down. We're all laughing from relief. Curtis - He's the man. :)
It's still raining as we taxi to the aerodrome. They have umbrella's for us. We thank Curtis profusely, he looks relieved. We're back, and off to Footeprints. It's warm and the palm trees look nice as the clouds start to clear. (sigh..) Life is good again.
Footeprints
We're off to Footeprints in one of the typically overpriced airport taxis ($10 vs $5 on the main road). We arrive on the beach. Our room is on the 2nd floor - looking out to the hot tub & the sea beyond. It's a nice room. There's a toothpaste cap deep in the drain which drives us both bonkers (not that we're anal or anything like that!), but that's the worst thing - so the room is great. We've got AC - an unexpected bonus. We settle in & then it's off to the bar for 2 dirty bananas - quite good tho made w/ powdered milk.
Footeprints is next to Swept Away. A nice and clean family hotel with a great, rather wide beach. There's a tiny reef just 10 feet off the beach, with a small array of tropical fish and occasional stingrays visiting. We stroll around to see our new locale, giving Vincent the nearby dive shack guy a package from Rasta Sue. He's pleased & remembers her. It's a nice part of the beach we decide.
We walk up to Firefly and then on to the famous Boat Bar. It's as nice as we remember. The beach is pretty empty though - sorry to see that tourism is down so much. Chris does a survey for a high school boy on the beach - giving reasons for coming to Negril, # of times here, etc... etc... Kids here end high school at 15-17 yrs - a bit different from the USA.
We walk back via Ossie's & grab some jerk pork. It's excellent just like last time. We relax back at the room & unwind from the trip. It's nice to be back! The evening bartender is Marlin - he's truly excellent. We get some sweet Jamaican bread top nibble on with our jerk pork.
It's a nice evening and we're glad to be here, especially since we survived the flight from MoBay.
Sunday
Up early (8:15ish - amazing), and we head down for the free breakfast. There's an issue. We need a 'voucher' for the free b'kfast - which our "Onestop Negril" travel agents didn't send.
A bit of negotiation with the front desk and a call to them in Canada & 'no problem'.... we're got our vouchers & are ready to chow down. The food is great - especially the bacon & callaloo omelette.
We're still a bit tired from the trip, so we relax on the beach. There are a nice mix of tourists & local folks here - a peaceful scene with folks having fun. It's a sunny morning, and the old Cigarette Man and other familiar vendors come by. It's great to see them. It's sunny till about 1pm then BOOM...!!! clouds, thunder and rain. We retreat to the room to 'nap'.
We're up & out after the torrent & walk north. It's HOT - in the 90's and BAKING on the beach with the sun reflecting low off the water. We jump in for a dip 3 times on the way to Cosmo's and then scuttle into their bar for a cold drink & some shade. It's brutal on the beach - don't want to burn on our 1st full day here.
We press on to Hedo, saying hi to Noel, Karl, and a bunch of other folks. It's nice to see they're still all here despite the downturn. I finish chatting with the Blue Taxi boat guy & turn to see Liz getting escorted back toward Sandals by a security guard. Seems she filched some ice water - gotta watch that girl!
We walk back to 'Our Pasttime' & cut out to the road. Taxi back ($5) to Footeprints, noting the small market across from the road for future supplies. We relax and start our great rummy challenge, ordering dinner from the bar. Marlin calls us when it's ready - he's a gem. We've got way too much, and we've gotta remember that most dinners already come with rice & peas! We ditch one of the rice sides later - and see the house cat & her kitten waiting for scraps.
We'll get some extra chicken or pork for tomorrow! :) On the way down, Chris has a scary 'crab incident'. (He's startled by a wayward crab trapped in the downstairs hall. Thank God he doesn't drop the tray of leftover food!)
It's a dramatic evening - still lots of lightning and thunder in the distance. We hang out on the hot tub sundeck and watch the show in the distance. It's a calm & sultry night... just right for the tropics.
Monday
Another nice breakfast, as Vincent & the snorkel boat guys prepare for their day. The mornings are the best time in Negril, when everyone is relaxed & gearing up for the day. We relax on the beach and then walk to Firefly to say hi to Meagan, Chalder, and have Meagan's excellent dirty bananas under their thatch roof while it sprinkles. It's nice to be back & see the old cage again.
The rain lets up & we're off to the Treehouse & out to Ossie's again for jerk pork & chicken.
The chicken is awesome, but the pork is wicked fatty this time!! Ossie's doesn't have change, so they tell us to 'come back and pay later mon'. It's an interesting place that gives you food & trusts you to come back to pay later. We do. As a matter of fact, there's a gift shop across the street that has good prices for rum & beer - woo-hoo!!! We get change & beverages & settle up at Ossie's. We scarf at Footeprint's bar & watch the beach crowd.
After a relaxing afternoon, we head to Kuyaba for dinner. Note that they (as well as most restaurants) have free transportation to/from your hotel. We're there just before sunset, and get a romantic table elevated high above the beach on posts. It's gorgeous. Psyche!... they have price appetizers & drinks till sunset!! We order a ton of stuff. A local soccer (?) team runs up, then down the beach - cheered (?) on by the local folks. The sun sinks into the water. It's a peaceful evening, with distant rumbling thunder. The food is outstanding - just like last time. This is by far the best food we've had around Negril.
We shuttle back to Footeprints. The driver is amazed when we tip him $5. It's our last nite at Footeprints. Chris is bushed & zonks out at 9pm. That early travel is finally taking it's toll!
Tuesday - Move to Catcha Falling Star
Our last day at the beach! Chris finally stirs after 11 hrs sleep (slug!). We get several pics of Vincent, and the hotel. Note that disposable panoramic cameras are nice for beach scenes! It's another sunny morning and we relax on the beach. 2 stingrays visit the small reef nearby, and some guests find a big starfish - about 10 inches across. We check out (with only $62 in food & beverages), and taxi to the cliffs ($10 - should be $5).
We arrive at Catcha Falling Star - pleased to see that Leroy's Jerk stand is right across the street, and Leroy is there again & looking perky. We check in. It's an idyllic place, with great views up the coast to Rick's & the lighthouse. The housekeeper "As" (pronounced "Awz") apologizes that our room isn't vacant yet & rousts the unfortunate Canadian dude staying there.
We dump our stuff and head to the LTU (a 5 minute walk) for lunch.
The LTU is it's usual friendly self. Same excellent views, good service & excellent food. The owner looks a little tweaked today - we hope that business isn't too bad. We relax & order.
The jerk snapper is superb. There's a ton of road work going on - good to see improvements. We stroll back to Catcha - stopping at Rick's on the way (our 1st time there). It's a civilized & rather soulless place - without much ambience... made to handle crowds. Good to see the famous place, but not for us.
We settle into our new digs. It's awesome. The room is octagonal, about 25 ft in diameter. All varnished wood, with a porch around the side facing the water. It's about 20 ft from the edge of the cliffs, so there's a commanding view of the water, and both ways along the coast - with unobstructed views of Rick's and the lighthouse. It's sparkling clean & the folks are friendly. This is a nice place indeed.
Noel (spoken with 2 soft syllables) the manager stops by to introduce himself. He's got quite a few gold rings & chains - looks like a character. He mentions that it's fine if "we want to go around naked here". He's a card. We settle in & take in the great view. This ain't bad.
The sun sinks low & the catamarans sail into Rick's cove. Reggae drifts over from Rick's house band. A crazy rastaman boat guy shmoozes with the guests on the "Nice Tri" trimaran. We relax & continue the great rummy challenge on our awesome porch. It's a nice evening, despite several crabs that scuttle along the porch, and a scary moth the size of a bird (6 inch wingspan).
Wednesday
Great breakfast by As. There are 3 employees here - she, Noel & Clive the gardener. She lives up Sheffield Road from town in the hills & busses for about 12 hrs of work each day. Errol's glass bottom boat cruises by looking for business. He keeps it up the South Negril River, and charges $15pp for 2 hr snorkel trips, $10 to go from the cliffs to the beach, and offers various tours along the coast.
We're hanging around the decks & porch when we see 2 dolphins playing in the water about 100 ft away. They stay around for 2 hrs - jumping and swerving. Quite a spectacle. A very magical afternoon.
We hit Leroy's for jerk chix for lunch ($300J for a chicken - no rice & peas). We'd heard that his family had some trouble. He's had 2 fingers cut partly off & shows me a 7 inch scar across his chest from an argument with another fellow. Glad to see he's still his usual hustling chipper self.
The snorkeling from the cliffs is good - lots of 10 inch jellyfish and the usual coral, sea fans, and fish. We stop at the nearby store for "Spice Bun" bread, and a great assortment of juices. The carrot juice blends are the best.
It's another hot afternoon & the 2 hammocks on our porch are superb. We relax & read with the beautiful blue water as a backdrop. As stops by to see if we're comfortable. We're the only folks here this week, and her quote of the day is: "The whole place is yours". : ) Walked up to the LTU for dinner. Villa Sur Mer we find is right next door. The deck is superb - hugging the cliff about 45 ft above the water. There's a small pool & hot tub set into it, as well as a bar, and hammock. A lonnnnnng set of curving steps leads down to the cove. Nice deck indeed! The rooms are a bit small and bedrooms are dark... but it's a heck of a deck. :)
The LTU is excellent as usual. We arrive just before a t-storm, and choose (unwisely) to sit under the old thatched roof over the famous mural of the octopus & treasure chest. Steady drips hit 2 of the 3 tables, so we jockey for a dry patch. The food is worth recommending. We particularly liked the crab balls, jerk snapper dinner, and chicken dish called "Caribbean Delight". This is a consistently good place to eat, and the cove is pretty. We notice "Citronella" rustic villas just to the south... maybe a place to check in the future.
There's much road work going on right near the LTU. "The hotels along the road are adding sewer lines" we hear. "They're going to pave the road this year and it'll cost them more to do it later." Villas Sur Mer is also adding rooms and pools across the street...so it is a busy scene.
We beat a path back to Catcha when the rain pauses. About way there the heavens open again. Our trusty 'ducky' umbrella saves us & we arrive only partly soaked. God, dry clothes feel good! We relax on the porch amidst the rain, watching lightning across the water in the distance.
The sounds of Rick's reggae band is pleasant nearby. They play a short nite till about 8:30.
Thursday
As brings fresh ackee for breakfast!! It's light and fluffy, with a creamy texture. Seems to be boiled, then lightly fried in butter with onions.... served drenched in butter. It's great - Very tasty.... at least in small quantities! : ) We chat with As and learn that the dolphins come regularly. They like to check out the local fish traps, and tend to jump and play when the boat guys make noise - banging on the sides of their boats and whistling.
We get a more unusual treat & see 2 sea turtles (leatherbacks?) coming up periodically for air, then diving. They're about 70 ft from the cliffs... 1 with a shell about 1.5 ft & another about 2.5ft. They're not very common, so we're tickled.
It's a major "Rick's sunset cruise" night, with the Hedo cat, Wild Thing, and the Jolly Mermaid all converging just before sundown. We moon the Hedo crew (you gotta do it), and receive a spirited cheer from the few people on board. It definitely seems slow
It's near dinner time & we walk up the cliff road, past the LTU to our find of the trip: Rexy's. There's reggae blasting from his small roadside stand. Rexy is out in the road, dancing and shmoozing with a local girl across the street. "C'mon baby" he calls... "Show us that dance!", as he grinds and twists to the music. She grins & obliges, shaking her bootie & clapping hands. It's a sight to behold. We join in the dance, getting minor cheers from those at hand. After this, we've gotta get a beer from "Sexy Rexy". We chat for a few & head to the LTU for snacks.
After a nice stop at the LTU for crab balls, we grab our jerk pork dinners from Leroy - getting scammed into paying an extra $5 for rice & peas and callaloo. Note to self - be sure you agree on the price <in detail> before assuming all is done. : ) We eat a great dinner from Leroy's, and have another relaxing nite of cards on the porch, listening to Rick's reggae with a new female singer.
Friday
A nice breakfast as usual on the porch. The turtles are back, and the snorkeling is good (with pics from the disposable cam. Chat with Clive & Noel - nice folks & very approachable & responsive. We have a great last nite enjoying the sounds of the sea & Rick's music. And we have a friendly visit from two marauding crabs on our porch.
Saturday
Our last wonderful breakfast from As, including that delicious papaya. The turtles return again, as well as several schools of blue fish (tangs?) Who arent remotely interested in the bread crumbs we toss out to them. We sip our coffee & take in the gorgeous view and serenity of Catchas Falling Stars place on the cliffs. A truly wonderful place well return to again soon.
We make our way to the Negril aerodrome with Winston....he spends time working in Massachusetts and Vermont! We chat about the economy and life in general. Our flight to MoBay is smooth & easy. And too soon we are back in Vermont, ready to begin the countdown to our next trip to Negril.