Trip
Report – Grand Lido Braco
May
22 – 29, 2001
George
(Bud) and Dorothy Swank
Gold
River, California
The
week we just spent at Braco was the best vacation of our lives. That is saying
a lot. We have been fortunate to enjoy many great trips, including two
previous visits to this beautiful resort.
Management
and the hard-working staff are clearly committed to improving on excellence.
The property continues to be absolutely beautiful. It did not look any better
on our first trip, when everything was new, than it does now. Additional
refinements that make a significant difference have been added.
This
was the first time that we have used the Internet to make contacts with other
guests ahead of time. We have always found it easy to meet and talk with
people at Braco, but never before did we get that going so quickly. Making
prior arrangements to meet meant that we were developing meaningful
friendships almost literally from the time of our arrival.
A
vacation at Braco is whatever you make of it. You can be active from morning
to night, or you can be a total slug whose only exercise is to hold out a hand
to have a drink placed in it. You will be offered many opportunities for
activities, but no one hassles you if you prefer to sit or lie quietly and
read or sleep.
We
took Delta’s overnight flight from Sacramento to Atlanta, and then Air
Jamaica to Montego Bay. This allowed us to be at the resort by 10:30 a.m. The
penalty for flying this route was that on the return we left the resort at
7:00 a.m. in order to get to Atlanta in time for a five-hour layover.
Air
Jamaica continues to offer one of the better flying experiences for those of
us who fly cattle class. The equipment is modern, and the cabin is both
pleasing and well maintained. Very important: the seats seem to be a little
wider and there are a crucial few inches of additional leg room. This adds
much to the comfort.
Delta
operated on time in both directions, but there is nothing else good to say
about their service. Outbound (redeye flight) offered a drink and a bag of
pretzels immediately after takeoff, and then not so much as a glass of water
for the remainder of a flight that was nearly four hours long. That is more
than enough time to get dehydrated. We have never flown that long without at
least being offered water before landing.
Delta’s
seating is impossibly close on the 757. Bud is only 5’10”, but his shins
were pressed against the lower seat back for the entire trip. He can nearly
always find a way to straighten his legs on a plane, but not this time. He has
never had a more uncomfortable flight. Going home presented us with a
different set of problems, but it was equally bad.
Having
written the above, we have heard from others who had the reverse experience:
good on Delta and bad on Air Jamaica. Flying today is simply a gamble.
Nevertheless, we are making sure that our tour company does not book us on
Delta when we go to Europe later this year.
We
were the only ones checking in, so the whole process took no more than five
minutes. We were offered the opportunity to order a drink, but we preferred to
just get on to our room and get the vacation started.
Our
travel agent had booked the Run of the House special through GoClassy. We
saved the price of an extra day that way, but we knew that we were risking
ending up in a Gardenview room. We hoped for better, but had agreed in advance
that the least accommodation at Braco is still a great place. We were prepared to smile, say “thank you,” and enjoy
ourselves no matter where they put us.
However,
we believe in asking for what we really want. Bud put on his warmest smile,
and said to the lady at the desk, “Last time you were gracious to upgrade us
to an au naturel suite. We’re hoping that you might do that for us
again.” She said, “Oh, Mr. Swank, we have already planned to do that. The
keys I’m giving you are for a nice one-bedroom suite on that side.”
We
were led to the third floor suite that arguably has the most sweeping view of
any room on the property. Yes, sometimes fantasies come true.
As
we got settled in our rooms, we were once again aware that Braco is not about
big city glitz and polish. The resort is done in traditional Jamaican colonial
style. There is a certain amount of Victorian gingerbread on the outside, but
inside the rooms have only minimal decoration. Our rooms seemed to have been
recently painted in warm Caribbean colors, and were immaculately clean.
However, the walls were mostly bare. It is part of the charm for us, and we
find it relaxing. Anyone who really needs the glitz may be better off
vacationing in Las Vegas.
A
major difference between the regular rooms and the suites is that the suites
have a small kitchen, complete with sink, two-burner cooktop, and refrigerator
stocked with cold drinks. Why anyone would want to cook at a resort with free
24 hour room service is not obvious, but you can if you wish. The stocked
refrigerator is undeniably handy.
There
is a tradeoff to be made no matter where you stay. It is more convenient to be
lower down. Ground floor rooms on the A/N side can step directly out to both
the beach and pool. However, the higher up you are the further you can see. We
are glad to climb the steps to gain the fabulous view.
Security is much more visible these days, so much so
that I assumed there must have been an incident that caused the resort to beef
up their safety. Two different employees told me that was not the case, but
that security staff that had previously been kept discreetly out of sight are
now stationed in plain view. Evidently there was a lot of sleeping on the job
when they were stationed where they could not be seen.
There are now lifeguards at the pools, along with new
safety signs. These are additions that were required by the health department.
Considering that alcohol is served in unlimited quantities, it only makes
sense to keep a closer watch on water safety.
Some water sports equipment is now provided at the
A/N beach. You no longer have to get dressed to get a snorkeling mask.
The resort is much firmer about being nude on the A/N
side. A clear statement is provided at check-in. Nothing is said to people who
are clothed while moving through the area, but if you stop you will soon be
approached by security with instructions to take it off or leave. No one
bothers topless women who wear their bottoms. All of this helps the nervous
first-timer, for there are absolutely no gawkers.
Robes are now provided in all rooms for the use of
guests. At least that is the plan. Our room did not have robes, and we were
well into our stay before we learned that we were supposed to have them. We
did not care, because it was never cool enough for us to want a robe anyway.
We did report the absence of robes to make sure that we were not charged for
taking them.
The bathrooms now have scales. Ours was friendly. Bud
weighted once, and found that the scale reported three pounds less than our
electronic scale at home. We took that as authorization to enjoy the
temptations of the various dining opportunities, and never went near the scale
again.
The exercise room has now been enclosed with windows
all around. The salt air was destroying the equipment, so the resort made this
improvement in self-defense. However, everyone benefits. Many of us find that
we cannot work as hard in the hot, humid climate. It is a major help to have
the space air conditioned.
Now there is a Cuban string trio that plays at
Victoria’s Market for breakfast, dinner (we never ate lunch there, so we don’t
know about that), and selected special events. This is one of the touches the
resort provides that makes dining feel so incredibly elegant.
There have been many changes of personnel, so there
were lots of new staff to meet. The level of service has not been harmed in
any way. Wayne easily keeps up with the needs of the A/N pool bar patrons,
working always with cheerful efficiency. We were not able to get excited about
his “Wayne’s World” specialty, but there was no lack of other good
things to enjoy.
As has always been the case, workers were out
maintaining the beaches every day, and they are in beautiful shape. The A/N
swimming area has more sand and fewer rocks than last year, and much more sand
than two years ago. I walked along the traditional beach one day, and had the
impression that it is also much improved. Garfield told me that the ocean is
in a cycle where it is bringing in sand to build the beaches. Two years ago
you really needed water shoes on the traditional side, and they were a good
idea on the A/N side. Today they are not needed.
Popsicle service has been added. A lady comes around
to the pools and beaches to offer you a frozen treat. Nice touch. Yes, Cynthia
the fruit lady is still there.
There is a Monday night bonfire on the A/N beach now.
This was the A/N activity with the best attendance of the entire week. An
earlier trip report said that there were gawkers there, but there were none
this time. Probably the resort’s firmer policy has ended that. It was a nice
laid back event, complete with storytelling and a saxophone to provide music.
When all is said and done the people make the resort.
Staff are very friendly, especially those who jobs directly interact with
guests. Many of them know your name for the rest of your stay after hearing it
once. Those who were there on our previous visits at least remembered our
faces. That adds to the feeling of “coming home.”
Other guests were great to be around. That is not to
say that all are extroverts ready to join in conversation, but there are
plenty who are. We found it very easy to make friends, and went home with
email addresses for several that we expect to have some ongoing contact with.
Two years ago we divided our time between the main
side and the A/N side, and we did find that there was a difference in the
friendliness. Not every nude person is outgoing by any means, but as a group
they do tend to be more open and less pretentious. There are other
distinctions as well.
Bud asked one of the Social Directors if they saw any
difference between the two sides of the resort. The response was, “I hate to
be on the clothed side. They are so competitive. Over here people play for
fun. Over there they play for blood.”
That reminded us of Bud’s previous experience of
playing volleyball in both pools. The main side was incredibly competitive.
Some of the true jocks were hammering the ball down onto women who were
totally defenseless against that kind of play. Anyone who made a misplay was
likely to hear about it. On the A/N side the game was clearly for fun, and
there was far more laughter and a lot of support for the weaker players. This
year Bud played nearly a dozen games of A/N pool volleyball, and found that
the happy, fun, and supportive atmosphere never faltered. Frequent breaks for
beverage service may have helped.
We were pleasantly surprised to find that the owners
of GoClassy Travel were in residence at the same time we were there. A.J. and
Genny Hutchinson are delightful people who invited all of the A/N side to help
celebrate his 80th birthday. After learning more about the volume
that GoClassy generates for SuperClubs, we will no doubt continue to have our
travel agent book us through them. We are prepared to believe that the resort
will do anything it can for GoClassy clients.
We have been on numerous cruises, and have never
found a ship that exceeds the offerings at Braco. Victoria’s Market in the
evening, when it is menu service by candlelight, easily equals fine shipboard
dining. Piacere, which is the best restaurant that we ever visit,
exceeds any ship that we have experienced.
We ate half of our breakfasts on our balcony and took
all of our lunches at the A/N bar. The naturist experience is so enjoyable
that we are just not willing to go to the trouble of getting dressed during
the day. Besides, the lamb chops, jerk pork and jerk chicken offered at the
bar are all wonderful, as are the patties (a traditional Jamaican meat pie).
We had the cheeseburger one day for a change of pace; it was excellent also.
If you need dessert, the clubhouse has a chocolate brownie with ice cream that
will keep you going.
We are less thrilled by the beach party than many of
the other guests, but that is just us. It is fine, but it is not really our
thing. Having said that, the buffet on the beach is abundant in both quantity
and variety. The program that follows is quite entertaining. We especially
marvel at the fellow who plays with fire.
This was our first time to experience the street
party (threat of rain forced the food inside on both of our previous visits),
and we were impressed. There are so many serving stations that there were no
long lines, and the whole thing is done with great artistry.
Since this was our third visit, we had some concern
that the evening entertainment might be just reruns of what we had already
seen. Certainly there were similarities, but it was fresh enough that we
enjoyed it all.
Natural Vibes is still the house band, and they are
good. As one would expect they play a lot of Jamaican music. Several times
they also offered dance music before the main entertainment began. One of the
guests, Dave Leach, is a professional musician. He brought his guitar, and sat
in with Natural Vibes our last night. What a fantastic set that was. I had the
impression that the band was dubious about letting an unknown guest sit in
with them, and they were astonished at how good he was at reggae. Hot!
As mentioned above the string trio is excellent, and
adds a sense of great luxury to the dining experience.
We turn into pumpkins early, so we never made it to
the disco for any of the late evening entertainment. Reports we heard were
mildly enthusiastic about the PJ party, and less so about the toga party. We
heard nothing positive about the music played in the disco. Management might
want to look into that. In the meantime, guests for whom the disco is
important might want to bring their own CDs.
If you ever get a massage in your life, get it done
at Braco on the beach. To be lying on a Caribbean beach under a shade tree,
trade winds blowing over your skin, while a wonderfully skilled therapist
works on you is an experience not to be missed. They can do couples, so share
the experience with your mate.
They are able to do several kinds of massage. We ask
for Swedish, which has its painful moments, but leaves you sooooooo relaxed.
We each get a massage the day we arrive, and another just before we leave.
Incidentally, some of you will remember Tensilyn —
she of the wonderful hands. Tensilyn is happily expecting another baby in
July.
This was the first time that Bud took advantage of
the free manicure and pedicure. He thought it was enjoyable enough that he may
do it again next time. However, it’s probably more of a woman thing. Dorothy
had her hair done, and was fairly happy with the outcome. She warns the ladies
that they should not expect their hair to be teased in the same way it is done
in the U.S.
We were there on an anniversary of the day we became
engaged, so we planned to renew our vows while there. Beverly, the wedding
coordinator, made it very easy for us, and it was a wonderfully meaningful
experience. We were supported by eight of our new Braco friends, which added
so much. There is no charge for this service, except if you want the resort
photographer to take pictures. The service provided includes an automatic
booking into Piacere.
We saw some postings complaining about mosquitoes, so
we went prepared with repellant. However, we never used it. The resort has
done an excellent job of abatement. There are always going to be some insects
in a tropical setting, but we did not find it to be a problem. Neither of us
ever saw a mosquito. Over the course of the week Bud acquired three itchy
spots that were obviously insect bites of some sort, but Dorothy had none at
all. We heard one other guest complain of being bitten, while others had no
problem.
Everyone in Jamaica speaks good English, but it is
not their first language. There are significant cultural differences between
North Americans and Jamaicans. Furthermore, Jamaica is a poor country with an
educational system that is less than might be hoped. The result of all of this
is that misunderstandings and mistakes do occur, and it is necessary to take
them in stride and set about getting them corrected.
An additional factor that leads to mistakes is that
Braco does not have a centralized computer system that allows all of the
various necessary reservations to be attached to the guest’s file. Most
reservations that you will make are hand written on a sheet of paper. This is
an arrangement that can and does cause problems as names are misspelled or
written in the wrong place.
Last year we arrived at the resort to find that they
had no record of our reservation. This year there was no record of our request
for a wedding renewal ceremony, despite the contacts made by our travel agent
plus a call to the resort that Bud made himself. The day we had originally
requested was not available, so we had to take a later date (which worked to
our advantage; that way we had new friends to join us).
So – it is likely that you will encounter some
mistakes. Remember: this is Jamaica and you are on vacation. Be cool, and they
will work it out. They are very good at recovering from service errors,
perhaps because they get a lot of practice at it, but also because they really
will do anything possible to make your vacation a success. We have heard other
stories similar to our own, and they all seem to have had happy endings. No
problem, Mon.
If the resort is unable to comply with a request,
wait a bit and ask again. Your first request may have been denied by mistake.
We had reservations for eight at Piacere following our renewal of vows. Later
we wanted to add another couple, and were told that they were full. A couple
of hours later Doug asked on our behalf, and this time they had room. There
were two or three empty tables the entire time that we were there, so it is
not likely that someone just cancelled at the last minute.
Braco attracts wonderful guests. There were many that
helped make our vacation memorable. Since we cannot name everyone, we will
just mention those who supported us by coming to our renewal of vows ceremony:
Joe and Anne; Lori and David; Steve and Dawn; and Doug and Tracy. Thank you
all. Your presence that night — and throughout our time there — was a most
wonderful gift.
Braco will exceed your expectations. Book as many
nights as you can possibly afford. No matter how long you stay, you will not
want to leave. Will we be back for a fourth visit? Yes. Yesyesyesyesyes.
Jamaica soon come, Mon. Ever’ting irie.